Montezuma's Tower (5.7)
3 September
2007
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Montezuma's Tower – North
Ridge (5.7)
3 September 2007
Climbers: Rich, Sarah, and Dave Gibson
My last climb in the Garden of the Gods was on New Era, almost certainly the Garden’s best moderate 5.7 climb. Today Rich, Sarah, and I climbed Montezuma’s Tower, a 130’ spire in the center of the Garden right next to the Three Graces. We climbed the North Ridge route, perhaps the Garden’s most fun 5.7 route.
We arrived at the base of the tower just after Bruce Hamilton and his climbing partner got there. While we waited about an hour for the two to climb and rappel, it was time well spent watching them work the route. I was initially concerned by our lack of pro gear for the route. All we had was my new set of stoppers. However, from watching the two ahead of us, it became clear that there was enough fixed protection along the route that we didn’t need to set much additional protection. While Sarah could have led this route blind folded, she and Rich graciously offered me the lead which I was quite excited to take.
The technical crux of the route is just below the first bolt, about 16 feet above the ground. I had no problems climbing up onto the first shelf about 8 feet high. The move from this shelf to the first bolt felt like a 5.7 move. Bruce had placed a cam hoping to protect this move, but I felt reasonably comfortable unprotected up to the first bolt. For about 8 more feet above the first bolt, the climbing felt like 5.7. After this section and above the second bolt, the climbing became much easier. I walked up a ramp below the west side of the ridge and threaded a hole in the rock with a sling to set my next protection. From there I climbed up on to the thin ridge where the real fun began. The ridge turned out to be much easier than it looked due to step-like indentations that had been carved into the rock many years ago. With these steps, the climbing was probably around 5.4, although very exposed. Another bolt and an old piton provided solid protection midway up the ridge. At the first belay station I tied into a large eye bolt with two long slings and made a second anchor with a nut in the cracks below me. This allowed me to belay from a sitting position although a standing belay may have been just as practical. I belayed Sarah up to my position with my rope and she belayed Rich up to our position with her rope.
With Sarah belaying, I lead the short second pitch to the top. The toughest part of the second pitch, still very exposed, felt like 5.5 or 5.6 to me. When I reached the first bolt above the belay station, I realized that I had screwed up. I forgot to grab a bunch of quick draws from Rich and I was out. Rather than attempt to climb back down, I just used a locking biner on the bolt and that worked fine. Just below the summit I placed one more stopper where Bruce had set a cam. However, I don’t think that stopper provided much more than a psychological benefit. There were plenty of holds for the final scramble up to the top. Once atop, I used my rope and another locking biner to tie into one of the three the study rappel bolts. Once again I belayed Sarah up and she belayed Rich up. The summit provided spectacular views on this beautiful day. As it was Labor Day, the Garden was full of visitors, and the three of us seemed to be providing entertainment for some of them. Since others we waiting for the route, we didn’t hang on top too long. The 130’ rappel nearly straight down was quite a thrill and required both of our 60-meter ropes tied together. I rappelled down first and stopped once to reposition the ropes. Rich then Sarah followed. We finished off the trip with Slurpees all around to celebrate a very fun climb!
I found the North Ridge route on Montezuma’s Tower to be a very fun moderate climb and a great rappel. The climbing was much easier than on New Era which I recall as being pretty much sustained 5.7 with a scary move to get started on the final pitch above the alcove. Still, this was my toughest trad lead by far. Now it's time to get some cams and perhaps a few more quick draws!