Torreys Peak and Grays Peak
via Dead Dog Couloir
17 June
2007
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Trip Report
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Torreys Peak (14,272') and Grays Peak
(14,279') via Dead Dog Couloir
Date: 17 June 2007
Climbers: Dave Hale, Jeff Valliere, and Dave Gibson
Trailhead: Steven's Gulch
Roundtrip distance: 9 miles
Elevation gain: 3,600 feet
Roundtrip time: 6 hours, 11 minutes
Dead Dog Couloir is a very popular steep 1500 foot snow climb to the summit of Torreys Peak from its base in Steven's Gulch just off I-70 five miles east of the Eisenhower tunnel. After checking out the couloir during two visits to Steven's Gulch last year, Dead Dog was at the top of my "to do" list for snow climbs. Both Dave and Jeff were anxious to climb it as well. With time running out on a great snow season, the three of us linked up for one last big snow climb for the year.
In its current condition, clear of snow, the rough road from I-70 to the Steven's Gulch trailhead is just barely passable for passenger cars with good clearance and bold drivers. I was glad I drove my Jeep. When I arrived at the trailhead a little before 9PM, Jeff was already asleep in his tent – quite understandable considering that he had placed a very impressive 8th overall in the Mount Evans Ascent earlier that morning. Dave, Sharon, and Matt had recently arrived and were preparing to hit the sack. The plan was to be on the trail by 4:15 am. I set up my tent in a bunker-like rock enclosure up the hill from the road above the main parking area and got a decent 5 hours of sleep.
Jeff, Dave, and I started hiking from the trailhead bridge at 4:33 am. Another group of three climbers had set out an hour earlier. Even with the early start, it was already light enough that I didn't need my head lamp. With Jeff setting the pace, we made good time up the trail. At a fairly obvious spot, we left the main trail leading to Grays and made our way over a boulder field to the base of the snow below Dead Dog. It took us an hour to get to this point. When we arrived, we could see the party of three roped together already about a quarter of the way up. The sun was just beginning to hit the top of the couloir. We donned our crampons and pulled out our ice axes. Jeff and Dave put on their helmets. I had forgotten my helmet and only had a ball cap for cranial protection.
We started up the apron of snow below Dead Dog at 5:49 am. The lower snow was quite firm but not too steep. We each took our own route up to the point where the snow narrows and the couloir proper begins. Once in the narrowing couloir, the angle steepened and snow softened to a near perfect consistency for climbing. Jeff charged ahead with Dave following and me bring up the rear and enjoying nice steps courtesy of Jeff and Dave. We passed the other group of three about half way up, chatting with them briefly. Their rope work certainly was a factor slowing them down. We climbed a little left of center much of the way for the best snow. A large trough resembling a bob sled run ran down the center of the couloir. I estimate that the slope angle was between 40 and 45 degrees for most of the climb. Near the top, the slope steepened to probably a little over 45 degrees. The snow was softest near the top but didn't get too soft for good steps and secure axe placement. Due to the excellent snow conditions and my experience on tougher slopes on Skywalker the weekend before, I felt very comfortable the whole way up Dead Dog. Jeff reached the ridge at the top of Dead Dog a few minutes before Dave and I. We topped out after 1 hour and 15 minutes of climbing on snow. Our timing had been perfect for catching the best snow consistency and minimizing the risk of rock fall.
Dead Dog tops out on Kelso Ridge not far above the ridge's crux knife edge. From that point, it took us just 8 minutes of easy climbing along the snowy ridge to reach the summit of Torreys. We were on the summit by 7:15 am, which is the earliest I've summited a 14er. On the summit all three of us called our fathers to wish them a happy Father's Day.
After enjoying the summit of Torreys, we headed over to Grays. The traverse requires an easy 565 foot descent and 572 foot re-ascent. It took me 34 minutes from summit to summit. The three of us appeared to be the first to summit Grays that morning except for a few mountain goats that were hanging around without much regard to our presence. However, we weren't on Grays for long before the hoards began to arrive. We took the standard route down Grays and passed well over a hundred hikers, joggers, and skiers on their way up. Dave got in a glissade part way down while Jeff and I stuck to the trail. We met up with Sharon and Matt with Scooby and Shep on their way up. As we passed below Dead Dog, we enjoyed the full view of our conquest. Even at that relatively late hour, there were a couple of climbers in Dead Dog, most likely struggling with much softer snow than we experienced. On the way out we chatted with fellow 14erWorld member Bob Dawson. We got back to the trailhead at about 10:45 am after 6 hours and 11 minutes of hiking.
Since Dead Dog is such a popular climb, it's a good basis for comparison. Bearing in mind that the snow conditions of the day or of the hour have a huge impact on the nature of any snow climb, here are my thoughts. I felt Dead Dog was similar in steepness to the Y Couloir on Pikes. Dead Dog felt a little steeper near the top and generally more open and exposed than the Y. However, when considering the approaches, the Y makes for a longer, tougher and much more scenic ascent. (Plus you can buy coffee and doughnuts at the top of the Y before you catch a ride down by car or train. :-) I felt that Skywalker Couloir was more challenging that Dead Dog. The hard snow conditions Kevin and I encountered the week before made Skywalker much more challenging. Still Skywalker was steeper and felt more open and exposed than Dead Dog until we got into the Han Solo exit. All three of these couloirs are definitely more challenging than the others I climbed this spring – Little Italy on Pikes, the Angel on Mount Shavano, and the couloir on the standard route up Cathedral Peak. All in all, this has been a great spring of snow climbs for me and Dead Dog was a very fun way to finish it off.